Wine Spectator

New York City, New York
December 2003

Bring the World to Your Door

THE HOLIDAYS ARE THE PERFECT TIME TO DISCOVER THAT GOURMET MAIL ORDER IS BETTER THAN EVER

By Owen Dugan

In the wintertime, smoky flavors can provide comfort even away from the hearth. Sam Edwards is the third generation of meat smokers at his family's Surry, Virginia purveyor. He does sell small, boneless spiral sliced hams, but for the real thing, try his Wigwam ham. It looks primeval, and the taste – salty and smoky, with that nice sweetness – has a depth of flavor that comes from long aging, usually around a year. It's intense. You'll have leftovers, but believe me, you won't complain...